March 2000 Brisbane, Australia
Alvei Newsletter from Australia March 2000
Cyclone season in Brisbane.
For the past 4 months Alvei has been tied up to the old ANL dock 10 miles up the Brisbane River. In the 7 months since the last newsletter we have visited Vanuatu, made an ocean passage and stayed the cyclone season in Brisbane. We have also decided to try a different approach to the way we organize our sailing season. Starting the story with our departure from Fiji, this is what’s been happening.
The sail from Lautoka.
Still on the crew were: Jo, Dave, Mike, Pierrette, Debi and myself. Joining the crew were: Dominique, a Canadian Physical Therapy student, Adrian, a Swiss mechanic, Gordon & Marilyn, Canadian grad students, Sandra a wandering Kiwi boat hitch-hiker and Stefanie, a German Museum Conservator.
Passage to Port Vila.
We took on fuel and water, cleared customs and headed for the pass. Half way there a southerly gale stopped our progress, so we anchored to wait for better weather. The next day was Friday the 13th. Sailors are a superstitious lot, so, despite fine weather, we waited this one out. The next day we cleared the pass with a fresh sou’Easter. The first day at sea we made good time, it looked like a 4 or 5 day passage. When the wind moderated it began to look like a 7 or 8 day passage. The third day we were becalmed in a rolling, glassy sea. We’ll get there when we get there. Time for a swim stop, do the laundry or whatever. Led by Jo and with much encouragement from everyone, most of the crew went skinny-dipping. After a day of calms the trade winds returned and we were on our way again. Serious fisherman Sandra lost all her lures. Adrian caught two large Dorado. Marilyn & Gordon composed a 12 verse sea shanty titled “Evan’s Privateers”, I was touched, (except maybe for the part where I’m described as a “gnarly old cuss”.)
Eight day passage.
We arrived in Mele Bay, just outside the entrance to Port Vila harbor, late on a Saturday night. We dropped the hook near Ifira Is. so we could swim and dive the reef until being cleared in Monday morning.
Vanuatu.
After frustrating delays, the officials finally got round to clearing us by Monday afternoon. The crew was ready to hit the beach and pull out all the stops. Mild mannered Dominique became the party animal to be reckoned with! With her in the lead, the entire crew partied till dawn. “Now we’re wet and drunk on a Vila Pier, the last of Evan’s Privateers…”
Flag of Convenience.
We had been looking for a flag of convenience for years. We knew Vanuatu offered a tax-free haven for registering vessels. Their Commissioner of Maritime Affairs, a retired U.S. Coast Guard officer, had been appointed to restructure the entire department. The fees were about a third the amount the other countries charged. After a thorough inspection, Alvei was proclaimed sound and registered in a special category for traditional vessels. We now fly the flag of Vanuatu. “Yumi boat blong Vanuatu.”
A nation of contrasts.
There are 130 different languages with over 300 dialects, linguistically unified with Bislama, a Pidgin English from the early days of trade with sailors. French and English are taught in the missionary schools. Most everyone speaks 3 languages. This is also a place where women rank 3rd in the social hierarchy, after men and pigs. (Tusker pigs are a social and spiritual currency.) Cannibalism was officially banned in the 1960’s, although there are still rumors to the contrary.
The Museum.
Stefanie came here to gain practical experience as a museum conservator and so introduced us to the museum staff. A British documentary film crew, working with the Vanuatu Cultural Center approached us to see if they could hitch a ride to Southwest Bay on the island of Malekula. They wanted to film 3 days of rituals and ceremonies performed by a tribe called The Small Nambas. Everyone on Alvei would be allowed to join the film crew at the events.
Crew change.
Gordon & Marilyn returned to Fiji. Sandra and Pierette jumped ship for smaller boats heading to Indonesia. Dominique returned to school. Adrian went to a job in Saudi Arabia and Stefanie went to work in the museum and Mike went to a friends wedding in Canada. Joining here were Mike, from Australia along with a pair of travelers Jamie from U.S. and Kat from the U.K. Former crew Ulla, from Germany, was doing a photo shoot of the volcano on Ambrym Is. with National Geographic. She planned to join us later at Ambrym.
Exploring the islands.
We set sail to explore the outer islands. The first stop was Southwest Bay, Malekula to film rituals. It was the first time in nearly 65 years that many of these rituals had taken place and rarely had outsiders been permitted to bear witness. You might imagine everyone’s surprise to find over 20 yachts anchored in the bay. It seemed an enterprising lodge owner had spread the word and was collecting fees to witness the rituals. Lacking a proper introduction, the culturally significant event was being turned into something of a tourist sideshow.
The Rite of Passage at Southwest Bay.
The Alvei crew witnessed the ritual involving the circumcision of several young boys and their subsequent elevation to higher ranking within the Small Nambas. The name “Small Nambas”, by the way, refers to the penis sheaths worn by the men of the tribe. This sheath is basically a single banana leaf, wrapped over the male genitalia and tucked into a bark belt. This tribe, along with several others, was once known for cannibalism. Although eating people is officially forbidden, some say they’ll toss the unlucky chap into the pot from time to time. The highlight of the ceremonies was the pig killing ritual. I did not go ashore to watch this, the idea of killing pigs doesn’t appeal to me. I tend to make friends with most of the pigs I’ve met. They are smarter than dogs. However the crew said it was a fascinating event, so we can take their word for it.
Cyclone season in Brisbane.
For the past 4 months Alvei has been tied up to the old ANL dock 10 miles up the Brisbane River. In the 7 months since the last newsletter we have visited Vanuatu, made an ocean passage and stayed the cyclone season in Brisbane. We have also decided to try a different approach to the way we organize our sailing season. Starting the story with our departure from Fiji, this is what’s been happening.
The sail from Lautoka.
Still on the crew were: Jo, Dave, Mike, Pierrette, Debi and myself. Joining the crew were: Dominique, a Canadian Physical Therapy student, Adrian, a Swiss mechanic, Gordon & Marilyn, Canadian grad students, Sandra a wandering Kiwi boat hitch-hiker and Stefanie, a German Museum Conservator.
Passage to Port Vila.
We took on fuel and water, cleared customs and headed for the pass. Half way there a southerly gale stopped our progress, so we anchored to wait for better weather. The next day was Friday the 13th. Sailors are a superstitious lot, so, despite fine weather, we waited this one out. The next day we cleared the pass with a fresh sou’Easter. The first day at sea we made good time, it looked like a 4 or 5 day passage. When the wind moderated it began to look like a 7 or 8 day passage. The third day we were becalmed in a rolling, glassy sea. We’ll get there when we get there. Time for a swim stop, do the laundry or whatever. Led by Jo and with much encouragement from everyone, most of the crew went skinny-dipping. After a day of calms the trade winds returned and we were on our way again. Serious fisherman Sandra lost all her lures. Adrian caught two large Dorado. Marilyn & Gordon composed a 12 verse sea shanty titled “Evan’s Privateers”, I was touched, (except maybe for the part where I’m described as a “gnarly old cuss”.)
Eight day passage.
We arrived in Mele Bay, just outside the entrance to Port Vila harbor, late on a Saturday night. We dropped the hook near Ifira Is. so we could swim and dive the reef until being cleared in Monday morning.
Vanuatu.
After frustrating delays, the officials finally got round to clearing us by Monday afternoon. The crew was ready to hit the beach and pull out all the stops. Mild mannered Dominique became the party animal to be reckoned with! With her in the lead, the entire crew partied till dawn. “Now we’re wet and drunk on a Vila Pier, the last of Evan’s Privateers…”
Flag of Convenience.
We had been looking for a flag of convenience for years. We knew Vanuatu offered a tax-free haven for registering vessels. Their Commissioner of Maritime Affairs, a retired U.S. Coast Guard officer, had been appointed to restructure the entire department. The fees were about a third the amount the other countries charged. After a thorough inspection, Alvei was proclaimed sound and registered in a special category for traditional vessels. We now fly the flag of Vanuatu. “Yumi boat blong Vanuatu.”
A nation of contrasts.
There are 130 different languages with over 300 dialects, linguistically unified with Bislama, a Pidgin English from the early days of trade with sailors. French and English are taught in the missionary schools. Most everyone speaks 3 languages. This is also a place where women rank 3rd in the social hierarchy, after men and pigs. (Tusker pigs are a social and spiritual currency.) Cannibalism was officially banned in the 1960’s, although there are still rumors to the contrary.
The Museum.
Stefanie came here to gain practical experience as a museum conservator and so introduced us to the museum staff. A British documentary film crew, working with the Vanuatu Cultural Center approached us to see if they could hitch a ride to Southwest Bay on the island of Malekula. They wanted to film 3 days of rituals and ceremonies performed by a tribe called The Small Nambas. Everyone on Alvei would be allowed to join the film crew at the events.
Crew change.
Gordon & Marilyn returned to Fiji. Sandra and Pierette jumped ship for smaller boats heading to Indonesia. Dominique returned to school. Adrian went to a job in Saudi Arabia and Stefanie went to work in the museum and Mike went to a friends wedding in Canada. Joining here were Mike, from Australia along with a pair of travelers Jamie from U.S. and Kat from the U.K. Former crew Ulla, from Germany, was doing a photo shoot of the volcano on Ambrym Is. with National Geographic. She planned to join us later at Ambrym.
Exploring the islands.
We set sail to explore the outer islands. The first stop was Southwest Bay, Malekula to film rituals. It was the first time in nearly 65 years that many of these rituals had taken place and rarely had outsiders been permitted to bear witness. You might imagine everyone’s surprise to find over 20 yachts anchored in the bay. It seemed an enterprising lodge owner had spread the word and was collecting fees to witness the rituals. Lacking a proper introduction, the culturally significant event was being turned into something of a tourist sideshow.
The Rite of Passage at Southwest Bay.
The Alvei crew witnessed the ritual involving the circumcision of several young boys and their subsequent elevation to higher ranking within the Small Nambas. The name “Small Nambas”, by the way, refers to the penis sheaths worn by the men of the tribe. This sheath is basically a single banana leaf, wrapped over the male genitalia and tucked into a bark belt. This tribe, along with several others, was once known for cannibalism. Although eating people is officially forbidden, some say they’ll toss the unlucky chap into the pot from time to time. The highlight of the ceremonies was the pig killing ritual. I did not go ashore to watch this, the idea of killing pigs doesn’t appeal to me. I tend to make friends with most of the pigs I’ve met. They are smarter than dogs. However the crew said it was a fascinating event, so we can take their word for it.