January 2004 Nelson, NZ
Alvei Newsletter January 2004
Getting Underway.
After overhauling dozens of blocks and all the lower rigging, there were new sails to bend on and food stores to buy. With a crew of 10 it took 2 days to work our way through French Pass and the Marlborough Sounds. A dozen albatross escorted us past Wellington with a cold souwester and a brilliant orange sunrise in early May. The wind eased and backed to the sou’east. We set the gaff-topsails running ‘full and by’ a hundred miles off shore parallel to the sou’east coast of North Island. Another couple of days the wind veered to the west. We set the square sails to run our easting down at 40 south, bound for Tahiti.
Breakdown.
On the 6th day the little Sabb diesel, that runs the generator, compressor and pump, started leaking seawater into the crankcase. Napier was the nearest port so we turned around and headed in for repairs.
Exodus.
I expected to lose a couple of crew at this stage, you usually do. Adjusting to life at sea, the first week is most difficult. But by the end of the first week in port 7 of my 10 crew had departed. No one complained, they gave me gifts, wrote nice messages and drifted off. Their enthusiasm apparently dampened by the prospect of a 40-day passage.
Repairs.
After 5 days Tony the mechanic said his estimate of $3500 was no longer realistic, but he would keep the Sabb repair bill under $7500. We also installed a new battery charger to run off the Hobart and connected the Indicator Cock to the air start manifold to have a second way to fill the air bottles.
Keep the Faith.
Brent and Kristen, my 2 faithful Kiwis, started contacting friends to find crew. I put an ad in the Auckland Herald. By the end of the second week Eliza and Chris arrived from Wellington, Fergal and Patricia arrived from Queenstown then Ross and Mike arrived from Auckland. We had 6 new crew.
Underway Again.
After 3 weeks in Napier we set sail on the first of June with the square sails pulling us out of Hawkes Bay in front of a sunny nor’wester. Crossing the International Date Line we had two June seconds in a row. On the ninth day a northerly gale drove us down to 41 south. After 2 days becalmed the wind picked up from the sou’east. The afternoon gale became a storm by early evening.
The Storm.
We were hove to with only the fore stay sail set. The wind was over 80 knots and gusting. The surface of the sea was completely white with foam. Six to 8 meters above the surface was a mixture of wind and water. Despite the full moon and clear sky, visibility was down to 200 meters. That night we blew out 5 sails, the life raft was torn from its stand and swept away and our shore boat smashed to pieces on deck. The 3 freeing ports made of 6mm steel were bent concave, one was torn off.
Oops!
The air temperature was 8 degrees Celsius; the water was slightly warmer. Three times that night I was on deck and underwater. The third time a wave caught me on the after deck as I was checking that the pump was working. (It was.) When the seawater drained away I’d landed face up toward the sky with my bum on the Taff Rail, both legs over the side and one arm around the Mizzen sheet. It was only blind luck that I caught the mizzen sheet. I very nearly ended my sailing career at 41*20’ south.
Thick of the Storm.
Several times that night we had both lower yard arms in the water for an agonizing 2 or 3 seconds. As she started to rise the next wave would hit her and stop the recovery. Then she would rise straight up and shed the deck load of water in 2 rolls. I realized by then that if something didn’t break we would probably survive.
Riding out the Blow.
The next morning the wind was down to a mere force 9, at just under 50 knots, it was a comparative walk in the park. At 09:00 that morning Alvei was knocked down flat on her beam-ends, heeled over 80 degrees. If I hadn’t put in that 15-ton ballast keel, we wouldn’t be here. The sun came out turning the sea a deep blue with long wide trails of white foam. The sea running at 8 meters and breaking; it was still dangerous to be on deck without being tied to something strong. For 3 more days we were hove to until that low moved off to the east. We had sailed 150 miles sideways.
Chatting on the VHF.
I have been 20 years at sea, including 2 North Pacific hurricanes and that was the most severe blow I’d been in. I later spoke with a trawler Capt. out of Littleton on a 71 meter stern dragger. He had been fishing that area for the past 12 years. He said it was the worst blow he had been in as well.
Getting Underway Again.
Back at 39 south with the wind a gentle breeze it was time to unbend shredded sails and replace damaged rigging. Below deck it was a soggy, bilge soaked mess. A flying kettle of boiling water in the galley had burned Patricia, but otherwise every one was in fine condition.
Another Change of Plans.
After several days of light nor’easterly head wind we were 19-days out of Napier and only a third of the way to Tahiti. It was beginning to look like a very long passage. The Sabb generator and compressor were out of action with a cracked head. It became more prudent to sail north to American Samoa for repairs and to salvage the rest of the season’s itinerary.
Just Another Gale.
The last week in June we were running before a 40 knot sou’wester. A clear air gale with deep blue 6-meter seas. With reefed fore’sl and inner jib we were making good speed to the north. The temperature had warmed to bare feet weather.
Friendly Escort.
Becalmed at 26 south I was able to get the engine started. We motored through 4 days of calms. One night a 12-meter Humpback whale joined us swimming close alongside for 5 hours. By 19 degrees south we picked up the trade winds for a pleasant week of sailing the rest of the way to Pago Pago.
Tying Up at Pago Pago.
Normally we anchor here in the natural harbor at Pago Pago. However, without a shore boat or enough air in the tanks to re-start the main engine; the harbor master let us use the small marina dock to tie up until we could get the engine room back on line. Alvei was longer and in better condition than the dilapidated marina dock. We laid out the port anchor to hold us off the dock. Then we cock-a-billed the yards so that yachts could tie up along side without fouling their rigging. With our port side dressed in fenders, Alvei became a floating dock for arriving yachts to use while clearing Customs and Immigration.
The Cast of Characters.
Carlos, owner of a small fleet of long liners, cleared the dock with a phone call and had two mechanics on board within the hour. Rick, a local accountant with his boat on the hard, let us tap into his shore power and helped us find an old 4-meter tinny to make into a shore boat. Kamal, the electrician, loaned us an inverter to bring the American 110-volt power up to 240 volts. Spinner, who manages several tuna purse seiners, gave us 11 oil barrels so we could pump out the diesel tank that had become contaminated with seawater during the storm. George the mechanic found a use for the diesel. Tasa, a Samoa Air pilot, found us 4 long fiberglass oars for the new boat. And of course there was Panama Frank with his abundance of local knowledge and fresh fish.
The Local Scene.
Across the street were an all night Laundromat, a hardware store, a bottle shop and a petrol service station that sold the very good ice cream. All the while we met more yachties and locals. We hosted a birthday party for 8-year old Dancia and a pot luck bar-b-que for everyone, but it rained from sunset till midnight. We averaged 2 spontaneous parties a week.
The Best of Times and the Worst of Times.
The first attempt to repair the Sabb appeared to work then later failed. A series of local mechanics were unable to spill time the injector pump. Then, in the middle of repairs to the freeing ports, the welder stopped welding then tried to catch fire. Everything seemed to be falling apart as the crew grew restless and started to leave. After finding a capable Kiwi mechanic named Rhys I learned how to spill time the injector pump, but parts still had to be flown in from Norway and the States. The dynamo for the welder had to be taken ashore to Mr. Kim’s shop for repairs.
Desperate Times.
Our two and a half week stay in Pago Pago was into its 7th week when the last parts finally arrived. Of the 3 remaining crew, one had become friends with a guy on another yacht and wanted to join him then, but decided to return after we made the passage to Tonga. The second crew, frustrated by delays, joined forces with the first and together they announced that if Alvei weren’t underway for Tonga by Friday, they would be on their way. The last crew said if they left he would as well, leaving me stranded. By this time it was painfully obvious that I was here for one reason and my crew was here for another.
Bound for Tonga.
After new crew Jillian flew in from the States. We departed Pago Pago on a Friday afternoon with myself and four crew. We spent the next 2 days and nights tacking into light southerly winds. It seemed like a giant squid had attached it’s self to the hull keeping us within sight of the lights of Pago Pago. Then the wind backed to the east. We eased the sheets and had a pleasant 3-day run, with sunny days and starry nights. That legendary squid, it seemed, had raced ahead, pulling us through the water with ease. We finished the passage with a light nor’easter on the port quarter, ghosting along through the night we sailed past the cliffs of Vava’u at dawn and tied up to the dock at Neiafu with a midmorning rain shower. After clearing in we went to the market for fresh veggies then anchored off the Paradise Hotel.
Restless Backpackers.
The last 3 members of the New Zealand crew decided they weren’t having fun fast enough and found other boats to sail. The second week in Tonga we were down to one crew, a young German lawyer. After realizing we would not be visiting the surrounding anchorage’s at Vava’u he declared that Alvei wasn’t worth $25 dollars a day and wanted his money back. Unfortunately for him I had already sent his money off to cover bills back in Pago Pago. His disappointment was expressed later in the week with a statement I consider to be quote of the season, “Do not run the generator while I am on shore. You can not afford to irritate your crew.”
Crew off the Beach.
I put up “Crew Wanted” fliers in shops around town and made the same announcement over the morning yachtie information net. By the end of the week I managed to recruit three more crew: a young Tongan woman whose family operates a whale watch business there, a young American woman whose family was living there; and a Kiwi chef going to Fiji to renew his visa.
Weighing Anchor.
The anchorage in the main harbor is a deep 17 fathoms. At that depth Alvei will have over a ton of ground tackle out. With a crew of five the job becomes even more difficult. However, Kerry, of the yacht “Wanderer IV” came to help and brought a half dozen friends. It was still nearly an hour of hard work before we were underway.
The 500-mile Passage to Fiji. It started with a gentle nor’easter followed by fresh sou’east trade winds. Even without the square sails we made an easy 5-day passage to Suva.
Suva.
Suva is a fun town I kept running into people I knew. Three of the 4 crew departed and 9 more joined including a young professional sailor from the U.S. named Jared. In Suva we re-provisioned food stores and set sail for Beqa Is. south of Viti Levu. After 3 days there diving and exploring the waterfall we set sail for Musket Cove on Malolele in the Mamanutha Group.
Musket Cove.
Is a popular yachtie hang out with e-mail, restaurants, bars and swimming pools. With the fine dry weather here it was a good time to tar the rig. Everyone dressed up in old cloths out of the ragbag. We made tar pots out of tin cans and the entire crew went aloft to tar the rig. Jill and Valerie did most of the high wire work on the upper rigging. After 4 days here it was time to go to Lautoka to prepare for the passage to New Zealand.
Lautoka.
Lautoka is more like a farm town than a city. There are a number of good op-shops in town. Most of my tropical wardrobe of t-shirts and shorts comes from here. It was the week before Diwali the Indian festival of light. Fireworks were plentiful and cheap so most of the crew stocked up. After a very busy weekend buying food stored we collected several friends from other yachts and had a fun party with live music and fire works.
Another Slight Delay.
We set sail late one afternoon, but decided to stop at Saweni Beach for the night. The next morning we were underway again, but the weather report was for sou’sou’westerlies, exactly our course for New Zealand. Alvei has an uncanny ability to attract head winds. We would have to wait in Nandi waters for a fair wind. Another 3 days of sewing sails and painting and we were underway again. On the way out of the lagoon we took advantage of the calm water and light wind to swing the compass and make a new deviation table for the standard compass.
The Detox Cruise.
In the crew of 10 was an alcoholic chain smoker who’d decided he was going to cure himself of his bad habits by getting out to sea and going cold turkey on us. His constant talking and trying get people to give him booze or cigarettes was tedious at times. Fortunately he was a generally good-humored person.
The Plot Thickens.
A fellow we’d picked up in Suva had an alcohol problem along with something else. What ever else he was on I didn’t know and didn’t want to know, but he got delusional 2 weeks into the passage. He sat up in his bunk one night holding a big knife. He seemed to think there was a conspiracy against him, that we were going to hand cuff him and clap him in the brig. I waited till dawn to talk to him. Listened to him for a while then talked him out of his large knife. He was reasonably stable after that. He was a Kiwi who had family here.
Becalmed.
Half way to New Zealand we were becalmed for several days. I enjoy being becalmed. It is sunny and quiet as the sea heaves and rolls under the ship. A good time for maintenance projects or to simply enjoy the open sea. However we had an itinerary to meet and we were late. So, we started the “Iron Top’sl” and motored for says across the calm water.
Cold Front.
A wee bit of excitement the second week when a front passed over giving us 30 knots of wind for about 2 hours. Unfortunately we blew out the old fore course and had to retire it for the season. We finished the passage motor sailing into light southerlies arriving in Opua 19-days out of Lautoka.
Change of Crew.
Five of the 10 crew departed at Opua and were replaced by 7 new crew. The good part was that the 4 crew who stayed were having fun. Two of Jared’s friends who are professional sailors came to help finish the season. Plus 5 young travelers who met at a work visa orientation meeting.
Great Barrier Island.
The stop at Great Barrier was enchanting. There were daytime walks through the native bush and still dark nights when the water becomes flat as a sheet of black glass. The sounds of birds in the bush and the stars above were reflecting off the water.
Fast Passage South.
For the sail to Tauranga we had a fresh sou’wester on the starboard beam. After seeing what Alvei could take and stand up to during the storm; and because we had a couple of capable watch leaders on deck. I decided to drive her harder than usual. With the gaff top’sls set and a near gale on the beam we were racing across Colville channel at 8 to 9 knots. We passed Great Mercury Is. and through the Hole in the Wall by late afternoon.
The Light Show.
That evening in the Bay of Plenty we were treated to a show by a local pod of dolphins. The wind had moderated to a gentle breeze. In the water, glowing with bioluminescence, the dolphins became streaks of light around the ship. For the first time we were able to clearly see each animal beneath the surface. Swimming 3 or 4 together they seemed to fly through the water. Sometimes swimming so close together they appeared to be only one animal until, approaching the ship, they would split apart swimming in different directions.
In Tauranga. we picked up a young British traveler and had a blow out party with a load of people off the Kiwi Experience bus.
Passage to Napier.
We were becalmed for the first night then passed close by the active volcano that is White Island. Approaching East Cape the wind freshened and pushed us past Gisborne then left us becalmed off the Mahina Peninsula. As often as not you would get headed by a sou’wester here and have to heave to or run for shelter at Gisborne. However, we were lucky to have a light northerly breeze usher us across Hawke Bay. Nearing Napier we met Spirit of New Zealand and were pelted with a barrage of water balloons.
Welcome in Napier.
After our 3-week stay in Napier last May we were greeted by many smiling faces welcoming us back. I talked to the city council; the Coast Guard and the Harbour Master about making Napier a homeport for Alvei should Nelson become too costly. It was good to receive a very positive response from all areas.
Passage to Picton.
The rise in the cost of berthing at Wellington made it unreasonable for us to stop there, so we set a course for Picton. We had light following winds and an escort of Albatross all the way down the coast. Then we had to anchor in the lee of Cape Palliser to wait for a nor’westerly gale to blow it’s self out and let us across Cook Strait.
A Difficult Anchorage.
I had done this under similar conditions 5 years ago and had lost an anchor there. And there we were doing it again. It was a tedious 2 days being buffeted by 60-knot gusts. We bent the tips on one of the anchors, but managed to retrieve all the ground tackle this time.
Crossing Cook Strait.
We started with a fair sou’easter then met a fresh nor’wester and had to motor sail to the Marlborough Sounds. A couple of friends met us in Picton, then another 2 days in the Sounds visiting Ketu Bay and Croisilles Harbour. We sailed into Nelson Haven just ahead of a nor’westerly gale.
Transition 2004. A new beginning
Our History of Change.
The Alvei Project has had to change from the very beginning. I should have renamed this boat “Plan-B” because, as often as not, that is what happens. Our present situation shows the need for yet another change of direction.
The Situation.
Since the year 2000 we have been the most organized and the least productive ever. Our program has been a mixture of informal sail training and adventure cruising. Our crew has been composed mainly of back packers and low budget travelers.
Our cash reserves are only about 20% of the amount we will need to finance the work during the next 16 months. Two former crew are planning to return in March. At the time of writing Alvei has a crew of one.
The Co-op.
Alvei has been operating as a Non-Profit Sailing Co-operative where participants contribute work and money to keep the vessel operating. Our charge rates of $800 USD per month during the sailing season and $400 USD per month during the off season have been far below the rates charged by other sailing vessels in our class. It takes a year of attendance on board to become a full member of the Co-op. The year aboard may be made during either the sailing season and/or the refit season. After a year the member is expected to be a valued and responsible crewmember. Full members will be eligible for substantial discounts.
A Major Refit.
The past sailing season was difficult. Mechanical breakdowns, storm damage and low crew numbers have put us in the position of needing a major refit. The list of work projects is extensive and ranges from the usual sewing and painting projects to mechanical repairs. The engine room will receive much attention, including an over haul of the main engine. Considering the work list and our low bank account there is no way we will be able to have Alvei ready for sea by the end of our summer season in April.
Project Proposals.
On the top of the list is Project MARC, (Medical Aid to Remote Communities), based in Vanuatu. They would like the use of Alvei’s six double-berth cabins for their doctors and nurses during the months of August and September. There will also be medical supplies to carry. A Canadian woman would like to start an Eco-friendly, community oriented education program. A Kiwi has shown interest in developing a joint venture charter program in the Bay of Islands during the summer tourist season. A Mexican friend would like to add another vessel to his Pirate Cruise concession in Baja California. And a British friend would like to organize a world tour of sacred geophysical sites with a quest to find the entrance to a hollow earth. I expect there will be more new ideas as the year progresses.
Looking for A New Program.
If you know of an organization that could use a tall ship to promote their cause we would like to talk to them. If you know of a grants for a non-profit organization please put us in touch. We will give priority to programs that do the most good for the most people.
Help Wanted.
If you would like to help us shape a new program and make Alvei ready for sea again; we are looking for new people. Specifically we could use an Engineer, a Galley Steward to manage the galley and a Bosun to organize the focsle and the work project list. If you are capable, creative and have an abundance of positive energy you are welcome to come help us repair Alvei and reorganize what she does. We have a network of friends and contacts all over the world. It should prove to be an interesting year.
Our Current Location.
Nelson, New Zealand is medium sized town of about 40,000 population located in Tasman Bay at the top of the Sough Island. This is the Sunshine Capitol of New Zealand. It is a popular tourist town with a theater, a museum, numerous sporting activities and tramping tracks. The downtown area has a variety of restaurants, bars and cafes. This is the home of Mac’s Real Ale, Top of the South Distillery and a selection of local wineries. Along with putting Alvei in shape there is always something of interest going on in town and around the area.
Learning and Experience.
You will learn things you didn’t expect to learn. Come experience the diverse social setting with our international crew. Learn how to get things done on a tall ship. Explore downtown Nelson and the surrounding countryside. Every day is an adventure. If you have specific questions contact us at: [email protected]
Contacts and Information. Newsletters and progress reports will be posted on our web sites www.alvei.com and www.akvei.de E-mail me at[email protected]
Written by Capt. Evan Logan of the schooner Alvei. This season between 04 May 2003 to 20 December 2003 we were underway 112 days and logged 5941 miles.
Getting Underway.
After overhauling dozens of blocks and all the lower rigging, there were new sails to bend on and food stores to buy. With a crew of 10 it took 2 days to work our way through French Pass and the Marlborough Sounds. A dozen albatross escorted us past Wellington with a cold souwester and a brilliant orange sunrise in early May. The wind eased and backed to the sou’east. We set the gaff-topsails running ‘full and by’ a hundred miles off shore parallel to the sou’east coast of North Island. Another couple of days the wind veered to the west. We set the square sails to run our easting down at 40 south, bound for Tahiti.
Breakdown.
On the 6th day the little Sabb diesel, that runs the generator, compressor and pump, started leaking seawater into the crankcase. Napier was the nearest port so we turned around and headed in for repairs.
Exodus.
I expected to lose a couple of crew at this stage, you usually do. Adjusting to life at sea, the first week is most difficult. But by the end of the first week in port 7 of my 10 crew had departed. No one complained, they gave me gifts, wrote nice messages and drifted off. Their enthusiasm apparently dampened by the prospect of a 40-day passage.
Repairs.
After 5 days Tony the mechanic said his estimate of $3500 was no longer realistic, but he would keep the Sabb repair bill under $7500. We also installed a new battery charger to run off the Hobart and connected the Indicator Cock to the air start manifold to have a second way to fill the air bottles.
Keep the Faith.
Brent and Kristen, my 2 faithful Kiwis, started contacting friends to find crew. I put an ad in the Auckland Herald. By the end of the second week Eliza and Chris arrived from Wellington, Fergal and Patricia arrived from Queenstown then Ross and Mike arrived from Auckland. We had 6 new crew.
Underway Again.
After 3 weeks in Napier we set sail on the first of June with the square sails pulling us out of Hawkes Bay in front of a sunny nor’wester. Crossing the International Date Line we had two June seconds in a row. On the ninth day a northerly gale drove us down to 41 south. After 2 days becalmed the wind picked up from the sou’east. The afternoon gale became a storm by early evening.
The Storm.
We were hove to with only the fore stay sail set. The wind was over 80 knots and gusting. The surface of the sea was completely white with foam. Six to 8 meters above the surface was a mixture of wind and water. Despite the full moon and clear sky, visibility was down to 200 meters. That night we blew out 5 sails, the life raft was torn from its stand and swept away and our shore boat smashed to pieces on deck. The 3 freeing ports made of 6mm steel were bent concave, one was torn off.
Oops!
The air temperature was 8 degrees Celsius; the water was slightly warmer. Three times that night I was on deck and underwater. The third time a wave caught me on the after deck as I was checking that the pump was working. (It was.) When the seawater drained away I’d landed face up toward the sky with my bum on the Taff Rail, both legs over the side and one arm around the Mizzen sheet. It was only blind luck that I caught the mizzen sheet. I very nearly ended my sailing career at 41*20’ south.
Thick of the Storm.
Several times that night we had both lower yard arms in the water for an agonizing 2 or 3 seconds. As she started to rise the next wave would hit her and stop the recovery. Then she would rise straight up and shed the deck load of water in 2 rolls. I realized by then that if something didn’t break we would probably survive.
Riding out the Blow.
The next morning the wind was down to a mere force 9, at just under 50 knots, it was a comparative walk in the park. At 09:00 that morning Alvei was knocked down flat on her beam-ends, heeled over 80 degrees. If I hadn’t put in that 15-ton ballast keel, we wouldn’t be here. The sun came out turning the sea a deep blue with long wide trails of white foam. The sea running at 8 meters and breaking; it was still dangerous to be on deck without being tied to something strong. For 3 more days we were hove to until that low moved off to the east. We had sailed 150 miles sideways.
Chatting on the VHF.
I have been 20 years at sea, including 2 North Pacific hurricanes and that was the most severe blow I’d been in. I later spoke with a trawler Capt. out of Littleton on a 71 meter stern dragger. He had been fishing that area for the past 12 years. He said it was the worst blow he had been in as well.
Getting Underway Again.
Back at 39 south with the wind a gentle breeze it was time to unbend shredded sails and replace damaged rigging. Below deck it was a soggy, bilge soaked mess. A flying kettle of boiling water in the galley had burned Patricia, but otherwise every one was in fine condition.
Another Change of Plans.
After several days of light nor’easterly head wind we were 19-days out of Napier and only a third of the way to Tahiti. It was beginning to look like a very long passage. The Sabb generator and compressor were out of action with a cracked head. It became more prudent to sail north to American Samoa for repairs and to salvage the rest of the season’s itinerary.
Just Another Gale.
The last week in June we were running before a 40 knot sou’wester. A clear air gale with deep blue 6-meter seas. With reefed fore’sl and inner jib we were making good speed to the north. The temperature had warmed to bare feet weather.
Friendly Escort.
Becalmed at 26 south I was able to get the engine started. We motored through 4 days of calms. One night a 12-meter Humpback whale joined us swimming close alongside for 5 hours. By 19 degrees south we picked up the trade winds for a pleasant week of sailing the rest of the way to Pago Pago.
Tying Up at Pago Pago.
Normally we anchor here in the natural harbor at Pago Pago. However, without a shore boat or enough air in the tanks to re-start the main engine; the harbor master let us use the small marina dock to tie up until we could get the engine room back on line. Alvei was longer and in better condition than the dilapidated marina dock. We laid out the port anchor to hold us off the dock. Then we cock-a-billed the yards so that yachts could tie up along side without fouling their rigging. With our port side dressed in fenders, Alvei became a floating dock for arriving yachts to use while clearing Customs and Immigration.
The Cast of Characters.
Carlos, owner of a small fleet of long liners, cleared the dock with a phone call and had two mechanics on board within the hour. Rick, a local accountant with his boat on the hard, let us tap into his shore power and helped us find an old 4-meter tinny to make into a shore boat. Kamal, the electrician, loaned us an inverter to bring the American 110-volt power up to 240 volts. Spinner, who manages several tuna purse seiners, gave us 11 oil barrels so we could pump out the diesel tank that had become contaminated with seawater during the storm. George the mechanic found a use for the diesel. Tasa, a Samoa Air pilot, found us 4 long fiberglass oars for the new boat. And of course there was Panama Frank with his abundance of local knowledge and fresh fish.
The Local Scene.
Across the street were an all night Laundromat, a hardware store, a bottle shop and a petrol service station that sold the very good ice cream. All the while we met more yachties and locals. We hosted a birthday party for 8-year old Dancia and a pot luck bar-b-que for everyone, but it rained from sunset till midnight. We averaged 2 spontaneous parties a week.
The Best of Times and the Worst of Times.
The first attempt to repair the Sabb appeared to work then later failed. A series of local mechanics were unable to spill time the injector pump. Then, in the middle of repairs to the freeing ports, the welder stopped welding then tried to catch fire. Everything seemed to be falling apart as the crew grew restless and started to leave. After finding a capable Kiwi mechanic named Rhys I learned how to spill time the injector pump, but parts still had to be flown in from Norway and the States. The dynamo for the welder had to be taken ashore to Mr. Kim’s shop for repairs.
Desperate Times.
Our two and a half week stay in Pago Pago was into its 7th week when the last parts finally arrived. Of the 3 remaining crew, one had become friends with a guy on another yacht and wanted to join him then, but decided to return after we made the passage to Tonga. The second crew, frustrated by delays, joined forces with the first and together they announced that if Alvei weren’t underway for Tonga by Friday, they would be on their way. The last crew said if they left he would as well, leaving me stranded. By this time it was painfully obvious that I was here for one reason and my crew was here for another.
Bound for Tonga.
After new crew Jillian flew in from the States. We departed Pago Pago on a Friday afternoon with myself and four crew. We spent the next 2 days and nights tacking into light southerly winds. It seemed like a giant squid had attached it’s self to the hull keeping us within sight of the lights of Pago Pago. Then the wind backed to the east. We eased the sheets and had a pleasant 3-day run, with sunny days and starry nights. That legendary squid, it seemed, had raced ahead, pulling us through the water with ease. We finished the passage with a light nor’easter on the port quarter, ghosting along through the night we sailed past the cliffs of Vava’u at dawn and tied up to the dock at Neiafu with a midmorning rain shower. After clearing in we went to the market for fresh veggies then anchored off the Paradise Hotel.
Restless Backpackers.
The last 3 members of the New Zealand crew decided they weren’t having fun fast enough and found other boats to sail. The second week in Tonga we were down to one crew, a young German lawyer. After realizing we would not be visiting the surrounding anchorage’s at Vava’u he declared that Alvei wasn’t worth $25 dollars a day and wanted his money back. Unfortunately for him I had already sent his money off to cover bills back in Pago Pago. His disappointment was expressed later in the week with a statement I consider to be quote of the season, “Do not run the generator while I am on shore. You can not afford to irritate your crew.”
Crew off the Beach.
I put up “Crew Wanted” fliers in shops around town and made the same announcement over the morning yachtie information net. By the end of the week I managed to recruit three more crew: a young Tongan woman whose family operates a whale watch business there, a young American woman whose family was living there; and a Kiwi chef going to Fiji to renew his visa.
Weighing Anchor.
The anchorage in the main harbor is a deep 17 fathoms. At that depth Alvei will have over a ton of ground tackle out. With a crew of five the job becomes even more difficult. However, Kerry, of the yacht “Wanderer IV” came to help and brought a half dozen friends. It was still nearly an hour of hard work before we were underway.
The 500-mile Passage to Fiji. It started with a gentle nor’easter followed by fresh sou’east trade winds. Even without the square sails we made an easy 5-day passage to Suva.
Suva.
Suva is a fun town I kept running into people I knew. Three of the 4 crew departed and 9 more joined including a young professional sailor from the U.S. named Jared. In Suva we re-provisioned food stores and set sail for Beqa Is. south of Viti Levu. After 3 days there diving and exploring the waterfall we set sail for Musket Cove on Malolele in the Mamanutha Group.
Musket Cove.
Is a popular yachtie hang out with e-mail, restaurants, bars and swimming pools. With the fine dry weather here it was a good time to tar the rig. Everyone dressed up in old cloths out of the ragbag. We made tar pots out of tin cans and the entire crew went aloft to tar the rig. Jill and Valerie did most of the high wire work on the upper rigging. After 4 days here it was time to go to Lautoka to prepare for the passage to New Zealand.
Lautoka.
Lautoka is more like a farm town than a city. There are a number of good op-shops in town. Most of my tropical wardrobe of t-shirts and shorts comes from here. It was the week before Diwali the Indian festival of light. Fireworks were plentiful and cheap so most of the crew stocked up. After a very busy weekend buying food stored we collected several friends from other yachts and had a fun party with live music and fire works.
Another Slight Delay.
We set sail late one afternoon, but decided to stop at Saweni Beach for the night. The next morning we were underway again, but the weather report was for sou’sou’westerlies, exactly our course for New Zealand. Alvei has an uncanny ability to attract head winds. We would have to wait in Nandi waters for a fair wind. Another 3 days of sewing sails and painting and we were underway again. On the way out of the lagoon we took advantage of the calm water and light wind to swing the compass and make a new deviation table for the standard compass.
The Detox Cruise.
In the crew of 10 was an alcoholic chain smoker who’d decided he was going to cure himself of his bad habits by getting out to sea and going cold turkey on us. His constant talking and trying get people to give him booze or cigarettes was tedious at times. Fortunately he was a generally good-humored person.
The Plot Thickens.
A fellow we’d picked up in Suva had an alcohol problem along with something else. What ever else he was on I didn’t know and didn’t want to know, but he got delusional 2 weeks into the passage. He sat up in his bunk one night holding a big knife. He seemed to think there was a conspiracy against him, that we were going to hand cuff him and clap him in the brig. I waited till dawn to talk to him. Listened to him for a while then talked him out of his large knife. He was reasonably stable after that. He was a Kiwi who had family here.
Becalmed.
Half way to New Zealand we were becalmed for several days. I enjoy being becalmed. It is sunny and quiet as the sea heaves and rolls under the ship. A good time for maintenance projects or to simply enjoy the open sea. However we had an itinerary to meet and we were late. So, we started the “Iron Top’sl” and motored for says across the calm water.
Cold Front.
A wee bit of excitement the second week when a front passed over giving us 30 knots of wind for about 2 hours. Unfortunately we blew out the old fore course and had to retire it for the season. We finished the passage motor sailing into light southerlies arriving in Opua 19-days out of Lautoka.
Change of Crew.
Five of the 10 crew departed at Opua and were replaced by 7 new crew. The good part was that the 4 crew who stayed were having fun. Two of Jared’s friends who are professional sailors came to help finish the season. Plus 5 young travelers who met at a work visa orientation meeting.
Great Barrier Island.
The stop at Great Barrier was enchanting. There were daytime walks through the native bush and still dark nights when the water becomes flat as a sheet of black glass. The sounds of birds in the bush and the stars above were reflecting off the water.
Fast Passage South.
For the sail to Tauranga we had a fresh sou’wester on the starboard beam. After seeing what Alvei could take and stand up to during the storm; and because we had a couple of capable watch leaders on deck. I decided to drive her harder than usual. With the gaff top’sls set and a near gale on the beam we were racing across Colville channel at 8 to 9 knots. We passed Great Mercury Is. and through the Hole in the Wall by late afternoon.
The Light Show.
That evening in the Bay of Plenty we were treated to a show by a local pod of dolphins. The wind had moderated to a gentle breeze. In the water, glowing with bioluminescence, the dolphins became streaks of light around the ship. For the first time we were able to clearly see each animal beneath the surface. Swimming 3 or 4 together they seemed to fly through the water. Sometimes swimming so close together they appeared to be only one animal until, approaching the ship, they would split apart swimming in different directions.
In Tauranga. we picked up a young British traveler and had a blow out party with a load of people off the Kiwi Experience bus.
Passage to Napier.
We were becalmed for the first night then passed close by the active volcano that is White Island. Approaching East Cape the wind freshened and pushed us past Gisborne then left us becalmed off the Mahina Peninsula. As often as not you would get headed by a sou’wester here and have to heave to or run for shelter at Gisborne. However, we were lucky to have a light northerly breeze usher us across Hawke Bay. Nearing Napier we met Spirit of New Zealand and were pelted with a barrage of water balloons.
Welcome in Napier.
After our 3-week stay in Napier last May we were greeted by many smiling faces welcoming us back. I talked to the city council; the Coast Guard and the Harbour Master about making Napier a homeport for Alvei should Nelson become too costly. It was good to receive a very positive response from all areas.
Passage to Picton.
The rise in the cost of berthing at Wellington made it unreasonable for us to stop there, so we set a course for Picton. We had light following winds and an escort of Albatross all the way down the coast. Then we had to anchor in the lee of Cape Palliser to wait for a nor’westerly gale to blow it’s self out and let us across Cook Strait.
A Difficult Anchorage.
I had done this under similar conditions 5 years ago and had lost an anchor there. And there we were doing it again. It was a tedious 2 days being buffeted by 60-knot gusts. We bent the tips on one of the anchors, but managed to retrieve all the ground tackle this time.
Crossing Cook Strait.
We started with a fair sou’easter then met a fresh nor’wester and had to motor sail to the Marlborough Sounds. A couple of friends met us in Picton, then another 2 days in the Sounds visiting Ketu Bay and Croisilles Harbour. We sailed into Nelson Haven just ahead of a nor’westerly gale.
Transition 2004. A new beginning
Our History of Change.
The Alvei Project has had to change from the very beginning. I should have renamed this boat “Plan-B” because, as often as not, that is what happens. Our present situation shows the need for yet another change of direction.
The Situation.
Since the year 2000 we have been the most organized and the least productive ever. Our program has been a mixture of informal sail training and adventure cruising. Our crew has been composed mainly of back packers and low budget travelers.
Our cash reserves are only about 20% of the amount we will need to finance the work during the next 16 months. Two former crew are planning to return in March. At the time of writing Alvei has a crew of one.
The Co-op.
Alvei has been operating as a Non-Profit Sailing Co-operative where participants contribute work and money to keep the vessel operating. Our charge rates of $800 USD per month during the sailing season and $400 USD per month during the off season have been far below the rates charged by other sailing vessels in our class. It takes a year of attendance on board to become a full member of the Co-op. The year aboard may be made during either the sailing season and/or the refit season. After a year the member is expected to be a valued and responsible crewmember. Full members will be eligible for substantial discounts.
A Major Refit.
The past sailing season was difficult. Mechanical breakdowns, storm damage and low crew numbers have put us in the position of needing a major refit. The list of work projects is extensive and ranges from the usual sewing and painting projects to mechanical repairs. The engine room will receive much attention, including an over haul of the main engine. Considering the work list and our low bank account there is no way we will be able to have Alvei ready for sea by the end of our summer season in April.
Project Proposals.
On the top of the list is Project MARC, (Medical Aid to Remote Communities), based in Vanuatu. They would like the use of Alvei’s six double-berth cabins for their doctors and nurses during the months of August and September. There will also be medical supplies to carry. A Canadian woman would like to start an Eco-friendly, community oriented education program. A Kiwi has shown interest in developing a joint venture charter program in the Bay of Islands during the summer tourist season. A Mexican friend would like to add another vessel to his Pirate Cruise concession in Baja California. And a British friend would like to organize a world tour of sacred geophysical sites with a quest to find the entrance to a hollow earth. I expect there will be more new ideas as the year progresses.
Looking for A New Program.
If you know of an organization that could use a tall ship to promote their cause we would like to talk to them. If you know of a grants for a non-profit organization please put us in touch. We will give priority to programs that do the most good for the most people.
Help Wanted.
If you would like to help us shape a new program and make Alvei ready for sea again; we are looking for new people. Specifically we could use an Engineer, a Galley Steward to manage the galley and a Bosun to organize the focsle and the work project list. If you are capable, creative and have an abundance of positive energy you are welcome to come help us repair Alvei and reorganize what she does. We have a network of friends and contacts all over the world. It should prove to be an interesting year.
Our Current Location.
Nelson, New Zealand is medium sized town of about 40,000 population located in Tasman Bay at the top of the Sough Island. This is the Sunshine Capitol of New Zealand. It is a popular tourist town with a theater, a museum, numerous sporting activities and tramping tracks. The downtown area has a variety of restaurants, bars and cafes. This is the home of Mac’s Real Ale, Top of the South Distillery and a selection of local wineries. Along with putting Alvei in shape there is always something of interest going on in town and around the area.
Learning and Experience.
You will learn things you didn’t expect to learn. Come experience the diverse social setting with our international crew. Learn how to get things done on a tall ship. Explore downtown Nelson and the surrounding countryside. Every day is an adventure. If you have specific questions contact us at: [email protected]
Contacts and Information. Newsletters and progress reports will be posted on our web sites www.alvei.com and www.akvei.de E-mail me at[email protected]
Written by Capt. Evan Logan of the schooner Alvei. This season between 04 May 2003 to 20 December 2003 we were underway 112 days and logged 5941 miles.